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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.phunkycustoms.com/blog/enabling-fortnite-festive-mode</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
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    <lastmod>2024-06-30</lastmod>
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    <loc>https://www.phunkycustoms.com/blog/phunkytools</loc>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.phunkycustoms.com/guides</loc>
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    <lastmod>2025-12-30</lastmod>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.phunkycustoms.com/guides/drop-in-kit-instructions-g4y79</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2025-12-30</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/2e382512-6e8e-40fd-8e06-10c1ba2c175a/WiiWT+Internal+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fret board silicone. In most cases this will be all of them. Wii analog stick is not included in this mod yet, so they can stay where it is.  PH1 screws for these. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these may be longer than the rest.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/1cc8566d-2c84-4cdc-a966-e4c6eecec975/Common+Parts1.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/be93ba6e-6e2a-48fb-9260-17ee6ad9c9c2/PSLP+Parts.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/7f33c5b5-9547-4687-90de-86f159157e8d/WiiLP+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! First, install the fret and LED wires to the Monofret LED. Keep track which connector is Fret 1 (I use a marker and put a black spot on the connector).</image:title>
      <image:caption>5. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. If the bottom screw slips through the hole, use the included washer to keep that in place. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. Models with the metal pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/1cc8566d-2c84-4cdc-a966-e4c6eecec975/Common+Parts1.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/ce6af6ad-0ae7-4585-af7e-bc2574c3cd1d/PS+LP+External+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. These will be T10 screws. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/70417a73-610b-469e-832f-169001c70046/PSWT+Case+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. Usually these mainly T10 screws, there are some PH1 screws near the neck connection. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/4cf40f6b-02e7-4108-9711-5bf35de1c512/Kramer+Screw+Placement.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. These will be T10 screws. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>PS LP kit</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/64515f65-7cc4-4af7-8676-b2dc789b3fc9/PS+LP+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! First, install the fret and LED wires to the Monofret LED. Keep track which connector is Fret 1 (I use a marker and put a black spot on the connector).</image:title>
      <image:caption>5. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. If the bottom screw slips through the hole, use the included washer to keep that in place. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/3adfc0c5-0d75-46c0-b5c3-a35d7137dba8/PSWT+Internal+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. PH1 screws for these. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these are usually longer than the rest.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/e04014f7-d30c-4eca-9fe4-664824b2943f/Xplorer+External+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! These should be PH2 ot T10 screws. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. If the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/3a2dad70-630c-42dc-af42-7c824b6f3817/WiiWT+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! First, install the fret and LED wires to the Monofret LED. Keep track which connector is Fret 1 (I use a marker and put a black spot on the connector).</image:title>
      <image:caption>5. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. If the bottom screw slips through the hole, use the included washer to keep that in place. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/1cc8566d-2c84-4cdc-a966-e4c6eecec975/Common+Parts1.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/035e1627-8f1f-4984-aa1f-6224e7127d84/Wii+WT+Parts.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/b45e08db-731b-43e6-81e7-8f1f60601df0/PS+LP+Internal+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. In PS controllers this will be all of them, but Xbox controllers will have the headset port that can remain. PH1 screws for most of these, T6 for some Xbox controllers.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/a93900fa-9c6f-40e7-8ab2-eff6a52dfeef/Board+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! First, install the fret and LED wires to the Monofret LED. Keep track which connector is Fret 1 (I use a marker and put a black spot on the connector).</image:title>
      <image:caption>5. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. If the bottom screw slips through the hole, use the included washer to keep that in place. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. It may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. If there are silicone pads on the original boards, they need to be transferred to the new board. The USB-C port goes where the power switch was. The cover plate for the power switch can still be use, just remove the sliding part to create the hole for the USB-C port. Some material may need to be snipped away for it to sit properly.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/f484d9a4-fa77-42f0-b645-485ef1ca4833/Xplorer+Parts.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/1cc8566d-2c84-4cdc-a966-e4c6eecec975/Common+Parts1.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/91dc4c4a-49e7-4f0f-ae49-513b97e31549/PSWT+Strumbar.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Strum switches not resetting: This can happen if strumming in the same direction (pressing up or down continuously instead of alternate strumming). If it is, trim the small bump on the underside of the whammy bar to give the switches some extra room of travel. Most common in WT/GH5 controllers</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/d0a872b1-72cb-454e-95b0-82b8c67904ea/WiiLP+External+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. Usually these mostly T10 screws, but there are PH1 screws on the front side shown in green. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/50b56330-b5d6-4294-bee3-65b67aa00050/WiiWT+External+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. These are mostly T10 screws, with some PH1 screws near the neck connection. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/1cc8566d-2c84-4cdc-a966-e4c6eecec975/Common+Parts1.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/6ea0ea87-a471-4a0a-a6ba-9927d878b6e8/Xplorer+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! First, install the fret and LED wires to the Monofret LED. Keep track which connector is Fret 1 (I use a marker and put a black spot on the connector).</image:title>
      <image:caption>5. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. If the bottom screw slips through the hole, use the included washer to keep that in place. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was, the placement of which will be different between 55 and 65 models.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/c5efb701-60b5-4ef1-9a6c-f043095b9571/PSWT+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! First, install the fret and LED wires to the Monofret LED. Keep track which connector is Fret 1 (I use a marker and put a black spot on the connector).</image:title>
      <image:caption>5. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. If the bottom screw slips through the hole, use the included washer to keep that in place. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was. PS2 models have a cover plate that can be removed and the USB board can be screwed into place with the extra screws from the mainboard.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/30dba6f6-c5e4-42f9-ae2b-3f86f888783b/Xplorer+Internal+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. In most cases this will be all of them. The Xbox headset ports won’t be used, so it can stay where they are. PH1 bot for these screws. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these are usually longer than the rest.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Note: 55 model shown, 65 USB port to go in green circle. Cables not shown for clarity</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/2af2b124-b1b1-4656-8a05-05bffd50c2ff/Wii+LP+Parts.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/e8c15f7b-2f92-4c77-8143-3875bcdad8ab/PS+WT+Parts.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/64ea86a9-da11-4742-936b-83d6a5d96d8d/Kramer+Parts.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/c807e1ce-7dfc-4819-b47b-6301aec446ef/Kramer+Internal+Screw.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. With the Kramer, we’ll be replacing all the boards. These will be PH1 screws.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/3ed3e5f5-7455-444f-a293-5edb33da9fcf/WiiLP+Internal+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fret board silicone. In most cases this will be all of them. Wii analog stick is not included in this mod yet, so that can stay where it is. PH1 screws for these screws. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these are usually longer than the rest.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/1cc8566d-2c84-4cdc-a966-e4c6eecec975/Common+Parts1.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Solderless RGB Kit Instructions - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.phunkycustoms.com/guides/bare-boards-and-diy-kit-guide</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2024-12-24</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/2542ff23-68af-4312-ba31-f5d1ba90e314/MBRP+pinout.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Monoboard and Monofret Installation Guides - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.phunkycustoms.com/guides/drop-in-kit-instructions</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2024-12-09</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/91dc4c4a-49e7-4f0f-ae49-513b97e31549/PSWT+Strumbar.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - Strum switches not resetting: This can happen if strumming in the same direction (pressing up or down continuously instead of alternate strumming). If it is, trim the small bump on the underside of the whammy bar to give the switches some extra room of travel. Most common in WT/GH5 controllers</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/d0a872b1-72cb-454e-95b0-82b8c67904ea/WiiLP+External+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. Usually these mostly T10 screws, but there are PH1 screws on the front side shown in green. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/b45e08db-731b-43e6-81e7-8f1f60601df0/PS+LP+Internal+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. In PS controllers this will be all of them, but Xbox controllers will have the headset port that can remain. PH1 screws for most of these, T6 for some Xbox controllers.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/3ed3e5f5-7455-444f-a293-5edb33da9fcf/WiiLP+Internal+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fret board silicone. In most cases this will be all of them. Wii analog stick is not included in this mod yet, so that can stay where it is. PH1 screws for these screws. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these are usually longer than the rest.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/2e382512-6e8e-40fd-8e06-10c1ba2c175a/WiiWT+Internal+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fret board silicone. In most cases this will be all of them. Wii analog stick is not included in this mod yet, so they can stay where it is.  PH1 screws for these. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these may be longer than the rest.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/30dba6f6-c5e4-42f9-ae2b-3f86f888783b/Xplorer+Internal+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. In most cases this will be all of them. The Xbox headset ports won’t be used, so it can stay where they are. PH1 bot for these screws. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these are usually longer than the rest.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Note: 55 model shown, 65 USB port to go in green circle. Cables not shown for clarity</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/64515f65-7cc4-4af7-8676-b2dc789b3fc9/PS+LP+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. For the fret board, you may need to use the included washer to help hold that. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/50b56330-b5d6-4294-bee3-65b67aa00050/WiiWT+External+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. These are mostly T10 screws, with some PH1 screws near the neck connection. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/4cf40f6b-02e7-4108-9711-5bf35de1c512/Kramer+Screw+Placement.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. These will be T10 screws. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>PS LP kit</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/a93900fa-9c6f-40e7-8ab2-eff6a52dfeef/Board+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. For the fret board, you may need to use the included washer to help hold that. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. It may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. If there are silicone pads on the original boards, they need to be transferred to the new board. The USB-C port goes where the power switch was. The cover plate for the power switch can still be use, just remove the sliding part to create the hole for the USB-C port. Some material may need to be snipped away for it to sit properly.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/ce6af6ad-0ae7-4585-af7e-bc2574c3cd1d/PS+LP+External+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. These will be T10 screws. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/3adfc0c5-0d75-46c0-b5c3-a35d7137dba8/PSWT+Internal+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. PH1 screws for these. Keep track of the screws from the strum board, these are usually longer than the rest.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/7f33c5b5-9547-4687-90de-86f159157e8d/WiiLP+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! Wii models should have replacement frets included. Remove the start/select silicone pads from the stock board, and transfer to the new board. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. For the fret board, you may need to use the included washer to help hold that. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. Models with the metal pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/6ea0ea87-a471-4a0a-a6ba-9927d878b6e8/Xplorer+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! 55 models will include replacement frets, while 65 models work with stock. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. For the fret board, you may need to use the included washer to help hold that. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was, the placement of which will be different between 55 and 65 models.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/3a2dad70-630c-42dc-af42-7c824b6f3817/WiiWT+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! Wii models should have replacement frets included. Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/c807e1ce-7dfc-4819-b47b-6301aec446ef/Kramer+Internal+Screw.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 3. Remove the internal electronics from the guitar including the fretboard silicone. With the Kramer, we’ll be replacing all the boards. These will be PH1 screws.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/70417a73-610b-469e-832f-169001c70046/PSWT+Case+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! Don't forget the one under the warranty void sticker. Usually these mainly T10 screws, there are some PH1 screws near the neck connection. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. Some guitars are tight near the neck connector, but if the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/e04014f7-d30c-4eca-9fe4-664824b2943f/Xplorer+External+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 1. Remove all case screws from neck and body. In you don't see them, they're under the face plate! These should be PH2 ot T10 screws. Keep track of all the screws removed during this process.</image:title>
      <image:caption>2. Crack open the case! Make sure the screws are all fully removed and separate the shells. If the screws are removed, they should come apart with little force. This is the time to clean and dry your guitar shells.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/642c864e7acf92699b280b40/c5efb701-60b5-4ef1-9a6c-f043095b9571/PSWT+Replace+Screws.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Guides - Drop-In Kit Instructions - 4. Install new internals! Using the same screws you took out, screw the new boards in. To replace the whammy potentiometer, slide the whammy housing out of the slot and remove the whammy bar. Pay attention on how it goes back together, and be careful of the spring escaping. Press the shaft of the pot to remove the original, and install the new one in the same orientation. The pot may go in snug, but with a good press it'll go in. The USB-C port goes where the RJ-11 (phone jack) port was. PS2 models have a cover plate that can be removed and the USB board can be screwed into place with the extra screws from the mainboard.</image:title>
    </image:image>
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